Silver Speaks: Traditional Jewelry From the Middle East
October 27, 2002 – September 9, 2003

The eloquent personal ornaments in the exhibition Silver Speaks: Traditional Jewelry From the Middle East tell the story of the women who wore them and the men who made them—Muslims, Jews, and Christians—people who lived settled lives in cities, towns, and villages, as well as itinerant traders and craftsmen, and nomadic Bedouin who roamed these arid regions in search of pasture for their herds. Opening October 27, 2002, at The Bead Museum in Washington, D.C., this exhibition presents a stunning array of traditional Middle Eastern jewelry and selected costumes—from Oman, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Egypt, and other culturally related areas.Coral-colored and silver beads decorate the cross silver rods of this Omani necklace called shebaq; diamond and hexagonal shapes overlaid with gold leaf fill the space between the beads. 

Photo by Paula Eiblum

All the items are drawn from the collection of guest curator, Marjorie Ransom, who assembled the pieces over the course of a 30-year career as an American diplomat in the Arab world. These treasures tell of times past, when silversmiths practiced their craft in souks throughout the region and shimmering dowry jewelry festooned city, village, and Bedouin brides from head to toe. Today old skills are being lost, tastes are changing, and this jewelry is disappearing. The ornaments on display are an enduring testament to a way of life that is vanishing in the rapidly evolving Middle East.
The exhibition explores these treasures in the context of that traditional way of life. This silver jewelry once had many functions for the women who wore it. In a world where a woman’s life centered on family and community, the jewelry she wore asserted her identity and proclaimed her status. In the face of hardship and insecurity, jewelry provided a woman a reserve of wealth and power. In a life of toil and physical labor, jewelry brought beauty into a woman’s life and lifted her spirits. In a society where
women were often veiled and silent, jewelry gave them a voice and attracted attention. Encircling fingers and toes, arms and ankles, heads, necks, waists, and bosoms, the silver said, “Look at me! See how I glitter! Hear me jingle and clatter!” In a world of unseen menace and uncertainty, amuletic jewelry warded off evil and protected a woman from misfortune. In a region that gave rise to three great faiths, religious symbols and inscriptions engraved on silver pendants gave women comfort and solace.

These Saudi hollow anklets, feature the
repousse technique and three conical
spikes and dangles.
Photo by Danya Malki

Silver Speaks celebrates the craftsmanship and virtuosity of the artisans who, passing their skills from father to son, fashioned myriad forms of silver adornments for generations of women—bracelets, anklets, finger rings, and toe rings; headdresses, hair ornaments, earrings, and necklaces; buckles, belts, chains, charms, and amulet cases; as well as cosmetic containers, grooming instruments, and other personal articles. As examples in the exhibition show, the tools smiths employed to shape and decorate these ornaments are few and surprisingly simple—basically a hammer and anvil, along with assorted pliers, mallets, scribers, and files; however, the techniques they used are varied and sophisticated—hammering and casting, fusing and soldering, embossing and repoussé, wire- and chain-making, filigree and granulation.
Combining these techniques, Middle Eastern jewelry makers developed an extensive repertoire of distinctive, recurring design elements. The exhibition showcases both floral and geometric patterns, highlighting symbolic motifs that reflect social organization and belief systems. Regional and local styles of traditional Middle Eastern jewelry are also examined, as are the many exotic influences that throughout history have impacted and shaped art forms in this crossroads of continents and cultures.
A beautifully illustrated catalogue was published in conjunction with the exhibit: Silver Speaks: Traditional Jewelry From the Middle East. The Bead Museum will schedule related lectures, films, and other educational programs for both children and adults. Docent-led tours will draw links between the exhibition and the museum’s Bead Timeline, a chronological display of beads from around the world, from their earliest origins to present-day creations. The museum’s extensive reference library will feature books on the craft and culture of the Middle East. The Museum Shop will offer similar books for sale as well as jewelry inspired by the exhibition.

Ornament Magazine article about the Ransom Collection, 1/26/2002

Pictures from Silver Speaks Exhibit (pdf)
note: requires Acrobat Reader

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Sunday 1-4

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